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LVP may end up telegraphing every grout joint...........................
What does the current floor look like.
It looks fine just dated. All other floors in the house have been updated. Beige square floor tiles, light colored grout. Just updating bath with new fixtures.
Match the rest of the siding an get rid of the red window color. No need for a feature at all as it does not add elegance at all. Just my .02.
It is not red color window. It’s teak wood finish alu profile. It’s look reddish in image.
Wheelchair ramps don't enhance drive-up appeal but I'll be dammed if I ask interweb buds before installing one if it makes life easier. Seriously, which looks worse, scratched and chipped drywall or a chair rail? My advise is when you begin to feel you must follow the herd,let loose and make a few dicisions for yourself and enjoy moments of freedom.
darbuka 8 year old post that was dug up by a Spammer hawking his vent hoods.
Would love to see updated photos!
Why would they not just tile to the floor and use a tile base or a vinyl cove base of some sort to cover the edge of the tray/pan?
For the edge poking through the half wall, treat it as a joint to finish rather than a tray edge to hide: run the wall tile down to the tray and cap the joint with a matching tile trim or solid threshold piece, sealed with silicone instead of grout so small movement does not crack it. Before that, confirm the tray flange and waterproofing sit behind the wall board rather than being cut around it, and keep the drain and trap reachable — a neat cap is only worth it if a slow drain can still be cleared without removing the wall.
Rebecca Martin , if you would like advice it would be best to start your own thread.
Soffits aren't exactly something that you want to call attention to. So, will suggest not painting them a dark contrasting color.
Context is key, post up some pics of the area in question.
It sounds like you are thinking of pouring a concrete slab on top of the existing pavers - is that correct?
We have artificial turf around our inground concrete pool. The pool was installed in 1967 and is in fabulous condition. You can find the material, install manner, etc to meet the weather conditions. There is even an antimicrobial pet version. We love it. I found a quick read on what you would look for in material. This is just to read. I am not familiar with shawgrass.
https://www.shawgrass.com/en-us/news/how-artificial-turf-stands-up-to-harsh-weather-conditions. We live on Cape Cod, so our choice would not work for you. We love it.
A floor plan with ALL DIMENSIONS will help you get the best help. Impossible to offer much wiithout it.
One idea that often frees up space is to make a single walk-in closet and put it between the bedroom and the bathroom. Then the bathroom can have the extra width for a bigger shower and a tub, and the walkway into the room stays wide. If you post the plan with the room sizes, people can show you where to move the walls.
"If you were to redesign this space with a walk in closet, walk in shower and a bathtub, how would you do that?"
Create an current floor plan to scale showing the surrounding spaces.
Satin bronze in a PVD finish is a good choice for a bathroom if you want it to stay even over time. It holds up a lot better to cleaning and hard water than a living finish, which will change color as it wears. The main thing is to order all the trim from the same line at once, so the tone matches across the faucet, shower trim, and accessories. It is also worth confirming the lead time before you demo, since those finishes are often made to order.
" It is also worth confirming the lead time before you demo, since those finishes are often made to order. "
@Santiago Miller Months old post at this point so probably finished...............
I have a house we are having difficulties matching this color to off brand fixtures. Trying to cut cost where I can
" I have a house we are having difficulties matching this color to off brand fixtures. Trying to cut cost where I can "
Huh? Wjat is your question @Angie Corn
Penny Tile I presume? What is the epoxy resin for?
They did in fact put the redgard over cement board. Then at the bottom it was hot mopped with what looks like actual cement over it.
" Drywall is a recommended substrate under Schluter Kerdi waterproofing "
True @joseph_corlett, Schluter gives it their blessing but the drywall manufacturers say absolutely not so we have a bit of a conundrum there.
Your not fixing that wiithout tearing it all up, possibly including the subfloor and new tile.
Why are people assuming it is a mistake? I certainly know people who would lay it that way quite intentionally. It's much less boring.
A rug, not necessarily large , will draw your eyes away from perceived imperfections.
I would use a quality Fiberglass Door like a Provia or a Homeguard. Stay out of the box stores and the doors they sell.
In that heat and humidity I'd look at a fiberglass door with a wood-grain finish. It doesn't swell, so the deadbolt stays put, and mold just wipes off. If you want to keep real wood, seal all six sides, including the top and bottom edges, and re-coat it every couple of years.
Thank you so very much! I appreciate all your advice!
lrd_lvr
Tough to tell as most are too far away and too much in the way but no the house wrap does not look correct, nor were the correct fasteners used. Why 3 different brands? Tyvek is good the other two are basically useless. Is the pink board everywhere?
Sorry my thread is strange. I have been very overwhelmed and stressed and didn't do a great job explaining things because I'm out of my depth in all of this. I am in a government lead abatement program for "enclosure" so the contract does specify that tape be used to seal all seams and edges to create an airtight barrier. The contractor and the program worker and the state worker all seem to say "it's fine because it passed clearance". But clearance test is a moment in time after they clean really well and there is literally still areas of peeling lead on my house right now. And I'm worried because of all the short cuts and errors that have happened along the way (installed a basement window upside down, covered over my gables and crawl space, left orange portion of the ac disconnect box wire exposed outside, covered actively peeling lead paint areas behind a piece of vinyl and caulk or behind an open cavity with a gap in the bottom of the vinyl corner piece on the porch that you can see the original wood (lead) house materials underneath/behind with chips flaking on the ground of my porch, etc ) though the contractor literally didn't follow almost anything as it was written in the scope. And so many errors along the way too. They just called/covered over the door jamb. All the doors and windows are out of square (seals are warped/gapped, screens don't sit flush, uneven gap when opened, etc). SO many weird gaps and holes all around the sliding and trim where fan fold, wrap, or even the original lead-paintes wood can be seen. Cuts sliced into vinyl to put cords behind. And didn't follow most of what was listed on the scope of work contract. State worker said "we give them our recommendation but we can't really enforce anything, we tried the contractor will be doing the right thing". Whaaat??? Why even have a contract then or why not add multiple options to each section instead of making it seem required. It's all so confusing and I'm on my own trying to navigate all of this. It's been such a nightmare and I wish I never signed up for this program.
Can you cancel the contract, and get someone to come in and fix the worst things. It doesnt sound like it will get any better, so best to stop it, and fix what you can.
The OP's profile states he is a General Contractor so this must be a flip that he is crowd sourcing..........................
" Return to sender, address unknown. No such number, no such zone". Elvis
Option 1 is our selection but as others have said, the option 2 does not match dimensions. A floor plan should be provided to give proper assistance.
Showrooms are not the place place to make final color choices. These need to be looked at in your home with your lighting. Backsplash tile type and color comes when all else is finished.
We are planning on a large Quartersawn Oak island and then a tall appliance garage hutch with glass in the same wood to break up the white a bit. So hopefully we can find tile and counters to soften the whiter cabinets
"To change the perimeter to KM cabinets to have more white options will cost +$5K."
"The one photo on the buffet with a large clock in the back is in our space/lighting which is what iniated some concerns and then anytime we take the door to look at counters/tile etc it has all sorts of understones and felt like it may cause some difficulty when we get to the stage of picking those things out."
I will ask............
This is reno?
How long is your anticipated stay in the house? Is it ten years, more?
Where are the pictures of the existing space?
Is there a plan for the new, what is staying, what is going? Do you have a 2 d layout to show?
A 5k splurge amortized over ten years, is 500 dollars a year, to have the white you truly want, not the white you settled upon.
Before whites, before oak islands, before tops, and back splashes and many more elements? Is Layout, function , storage,,,,,the p.l.a.n: )
@JUDY GRAHAM in case you want the paint color for my living room in my ”portfolio” , it’s is BM dove WING (not dove white) on the walls, hearth and mantel. the cased beams, cased openings, entertainment center, and crown are SW snowbound. ceiling is BM dove white
i’m about to paint the cased openings, beams, crown and entertainment center all BW dove wing (same color as the walls).
the back patio door is SW worldly gray. we have 5 kids and a great dane, so i wanted the door to be darker than sw snowbound (kids are grimy when they touch doors ;)
i just repainted the patio door BM cedar key, and i like it more than the previous SW worldly gray. it goes better with the floors. cedar key is a lovely color. it was the first time i worked with it, and i just love it.
You cannot make up your mind because 1 shinle and 2 small sample boards give you realistically zero context. As I mentioned get a full bundle lay out at least 6 or 8 full shingles.
^^^, or really at the end if the day a design element. You typically do not want to draw any attention to it other than being sure no one falls into it.
I am guessing the curved preformed wells are made so there is no seam for possible leakage...
I've used only the ribbed style, but suggest you do an integrated step ladder style for easier escape when needed.
Yes, check with the contractor as noted above composite material seldom has the same structural integrity as wood so the larger spans may not be possible.
I'd go with the full-height screens. Fewer lines makes the porch feel bigger and you see more of the marsh. If your installer wants the extra support, one thin rail at about waist height is a fair middle ground. Painting the frame a dark color also makes the screens almost disappear.
Wow, thank you all for the valuable input! These are definitely questions I had not thought of! All of you being in agreement as to doing away with the horizontal rail also reassures me of that direction! Thanks again!
And the question is?
" but if you were told there would be no seam "
@Cami Leyva OP did not say he was not told there would be no seam he was not told there would be a seam, meaning he was also not told there would not be a seam. The fabricator should have shown you a layout and had you sign off on it. Again, What did the installer / fabricator use as an excuse?
That's a nasty seam. They should have indexed the material into Integra Adhesives archive which would have told them the exact color adhesive to use. Too may guys just try to eye it up and fail. It could be gently heated, separated, and done over or even sawn apart.
We don't know the dimensions, but presumably there is a seam because the width of your cabinets is greater than the width of the slab.
I agree it's a horrible seam. I hope you get some satisfaction from the fabricator.
Sorry about your builder. Since the metal frame is already up, I'd look at fixing slats to it instead of a fully custom screen. Dark stained cedar or powder coated aluminum slats, spaced so you still get light and the downtown view, are much simpler to build than welded panels. A cheaper option in Houston heat is stainless cables on the frame with a fast climbing vine like star jasmine.
Your $50 to 100K number will not change much as honestly the labor and equipment will be the bulk of that. I would go with the original plan with the perf metal and suck it up, that's why planning on the front end is key.
" it's the stacked pair that looks tall. "
What stacked pair? The OP never posted a pic so we have no idesa what she has other than a vague description @Alex Lane
That sign was just put there to get an idea of how a gallery around those pictures would work. I took thst pic and sent it to my friend so we could get an idea. I didnt realize it was even in the posted pic! I was experimenting trying to see if I could get something to work, because my husband hates putting holes in the wall, and then taking them down. I did use AI which kind of got me into this mess because my gut told me they wouldnt look right, but it sent a visual and I thought it may possibly look ok. They were an impulse buy, and not at all what I originally visualized there. I will definitely replace them with a narrower, longer, pic. Thank all of you for your creative ideas! I have a long hallway where I may be able to better use them.
Sounds like the right decision…trust your instincts! Agree, not the spot for these!
Most likely was 7/16" or 15/32" OSB. It can be overspanned or gotten soggy from condensation. OSB is rated to span say 24" or 32" o.c. based on thickness chosen for loads for your area. Panel clips are also part of the equation. And, if the 4x8 layout left a sliver near the ridge, and they turned the OSB the wrong way or puzzled together small pieces it would sag. Certainly don't rely only on the builder's opinion as they are incentivized to do nothing and gaslight you.
I agree that over-spanned roof sheathing is often the culprit when you see rafters telegraphing through a roof. The fact that the defects in the OP's roof are more pronounced near the ridge vent adds an additional question to be investigated. Hopefully, there will be some good detective work and the root cause will be determined and remedied.
" New remodel "
Any pics of the room? Context is key and the bathroom needs to be the sum of ALL the parts.
It’s currently gutted but door will open to double bowl vanity, toilet to the left and shower with glass wall to left of that
" Having it stick out like you have it makes no sense to me. "
Not only that but who wants to look at the back of a fridge and it has to be louder as well......................
I considered the laundry placement you suggest, @robindenver16, but that space is tight, both in width (for side-by-side washer/dryer; you could solve that with a stackable) and in depth between the half-bath wall and the window (unless you're willing to sacrifice the window). You would have to know exactly what unit(s) you are getting and how much space they need, both for the unit(s) themselves and the clearances around/behind them for hoses/vents. Measure very carefully!
AI did a handsome job, I am just not sure you have all that sq footage.
I read this mistaken assumption all the time on Houzz. "Flat" roofs are not perfectly level. They have a pitch and that is given with use of that term. A flat or low slope roof is defined as having a pitch less than 3:12. No roof in the history of roofs has probably been perfectly level.
" This could be a substantial alteration "
Not "could", WILL BE!!
For a classic Colonial home, I always choose a 6-panel door with sidelights. The door is painted a color to match or contrast with shutters, and the sidelights are the same color as the trim.
Soapstone has been used in science labs since the day of the flood, and many are still in use. It is basically indestructable.
There are also granite options that give a similar look - Virginia Mist, Jet Mist.
For a powder room, soapstone is one of the best choices you can make — it's non-porous, so unlike your marble it won't stain from water spots or makeup, and heat won't bother it either. It does darken and develop a patina over time, which is part of the charm, but if you want to keep it looking even, wipe it down with food-grade mineral oil every month or two when it's new. Scratches are the one thing people worry about, but they sand right out with fine sandpaper and a little oil, so the top is very forgiving in a low-traffic room like this. Ask your fabricator to seal the cut edges and leave you a small piece of the stone so you can test the oil on it first. Honestly, for a 24-inch vanity you'll spend less time maintaining soapstone than you ever did trying to keep that marble looking clean.
As someone who cleans pavers and concrete driveways for a living, a few washing tips since you mentioned power washing the driveway: use a surface cleaner attachment rather than a bare wand tip — it cleans evenly and avoids the zebra striping you get from a fan tip. Keep the pressure moderate (around 1500–2000 PSI is plenty for concrete) and keep the head moving. For the paver patio, go easy around the joints: high pressure can blast out the polymeric sand between pavers, and once that sand is gone the pavers can shift and weeds move in. If the joints do get disturbed, sweep fresh polymeric sand back in and mist it lightly to reactivate it. A light pre-treatment with a concrete-safe detergent also helps lift the grime so you don't need to lean on pressure alone.
" As someone who cleans pavers and concrete driveways for a living "
They may need your services since the post and work is 12 years old.................
If it was my house, I wouldn't add beams with 9 ft ceilings.
Decorative beams, leave them out. Structural, more info is needed.
You're on the right track. An ion-exchange softener removes the hardness that causes scale, and a whole-house carbon filter handles chlorine — just check whether your city uses chlorine or chloramine, since chloramine needs catalytic carbon with longer contact time to actually come out. Both units add pressure drop, so have the installer size the media tanks to your household flow rate and make sure the main loop is plumbed for it — that's how you keep pressure loss minimal. A recirculating pump is the practical answer for faster hot water without under-sink units; a demand-based or thermostat-controlled one wastes less energy than one that runs constantly. Bonus: softened water also protects the tankless heat exchanger, since scale is what kills those.
" You're on the right track. "
@Meow, TWO year old post.............
Pics of the entire bedroom woudl help us as we have zero on anything else in the room or location of...........................
How do you want to use this space and what’s your wish list?
A lounge corner on that wall is a lovely idea, and it's a very doable one. Two comfortable chairs angled slightly toward each other with a small round table between them (about 20 to 24 inches tall) and a floor lamp behind one is the classic version. If you'd rather stretch out, a small loveseat or a chaise around 60 to 70 inches wide works too.
Because the ceiling slopes, keep the pieces low-backed and put the lamp on the taller-wall side so nothing fights the angle. Anchor the grouping with a 5x8 rug and hang one large piece of art or a big mirror above it; in a mostly white room with gray carpet, that's what makes the corner feel like a destination instead of leftover space. Keep the fabrics soft and the colors close to your bedding so the room reads as one.
If you post a wider photo with rough measurements, I'm happy to sketch out a layout for you.
" That’s really frustrating, especially after spending that much money on a reman engine. "
Imagine what it would be today being that the original post is SIX YEARS OLD.
oh i can only imagine
Stainless Steel Base, there should be something to use here on this site.
You are after this below as your other post? I'd want a more "disappearing" toe. Not the highlight these appear to be. J.M.O : )
Thank you for your suggestion. I had it in a previous kitchen and I loved the design detail. BTW, I’m also going with the stainless steel range. And my cabinets are edged in brushed nickel. I cannot wait!
Methinks @tumchewx is kinda .... ummmm....a jerk? I can be the queen of smartass answers but I might have to relinquish my crown.....
"But we have been in the house for years with no apparent water damage. "
No water damage and the bricks look no worse for the years, I would leave it alone and not tempt fate.
It's unclear, but it sounds and looks like the joint is completely open. An expansion joint, which you place around max 40' and within 4' of corners on long brick walls, should have sealant. No damage is relative. I assume you haven't opened up the wall, and you could say the darker area below the bottom of the vertical joint is evidence of brick staying wetter for longer. Do you have wasps in Houston?
You do not leave expansion joints open, period. Closing it is not going to trap "moisture", as bricks themselves pass moisture and the drainage plane behind brick veneer is how you deal with water.
Thank you, we do have wasps but don’t have an issue with them getting into the house. The dark area to the right of the window and below the joint does stay wetter but I believe some of that is splashing of the adjacent roof over the bay window. It makes sense to me that it should be closed with a flexible seal; I’ve got a masonry guy lined up to come give me a bid on this and some other work.
Thanks to all for the helpful advice.
" Above the bathroom vanity. Ceiling is 7.7 ft high "
Context is key. Post up pics. There are no absolutes or rules so you need to help us help you.
Did you ask your architect/designer to show you an elevation drawing so you can see what size the window would be and specifically the glass area. The glass could be as small as 9" or smaller once the structural wall support is taking into consideration as well as the window framing itself.
@Sol, my friend hates everything about the transom, except that it does bring in a bit of natural light.
Have the roofer pick up a bundle of your last two choices and lay them out on YOUR ROOF. That is the only way to choose colors. Sample boards and visualizers are not accurate enough.
Espresso was another color but seems so dark. i just want a nice brown/grey color with little variation.
Yes, a dark roof does absorb more heat than a lighter one, so with full sun all day you'll notice it more in the attic. How much of that reaches your living space depends a lot on attic ventilation and insulation, so it's worth having your roofer check the soffit and ridge vents while they're up there. With that much sun I'd lean toward a mid tone brown or grey over Espresso. Laying the bundles out on your roof like millworkman said is a great idea, and look at them at midday and again late afternoon since the color shifts a lot.
" Do you think that have to sand it down prior to applying the clear stain? "
Yes, because the gel stain is just sitting on the surface and you need to have the clear coat have the ability to stick to something.
" Instructions for the General Finishes High Performance Water Based Topcoat state that you should not sand a newly-stained surface "
Then I stand corrected.
most articles I read say that I have to lightly sand the gel stain prior to applying the finish
Probably not, but if you do, I'll suggest you scuff the surface using a Scotch-Brite General Purpose 7447 Hand Pad, Very Fine Grade or similar product.
You are not sanding, simply scuffing the surface to help increase the clear coat adheasion.
The surface should be dull prior to clear coat, and if it's already dull looking, no need to scuff or sand.
If you do clear coat (and it's not "clear stain"), and choose to do multiple coats of clear, which I would suggest, you can use these same pads to scuff the clear between coats. This will give you a smoother finish.
A picture or two of what you are dealing with will help with the best suggestions.
@PPF Thanks for the detailed recommendation — much appreciated. My understanding is that a cut brush is a less expensive one that you don’t mind tossing after use, since oil-based stain is hard to clean off.
Penny wise and pound foolish!
Valves in tile covered walls is not the place to look for bargains.
All changes in plain should never be grout for this exact reason. That joint and all chnages in plain and between materials should always be 100% siliocne, use color matched for this exact reason. Not a matter of if it will crack but when. It will always crack. Remove the grout and replace with color matched 100% silicone.
The 11th tile probably occurs around the framing platform. Settling (wood shrinkage) of even 1/8" wouldn't be concerning but enough to crack a grout line.
Wood framing instead of steel is your problem. I'd grind it out, refill it, and hope your framing is done drying out.
I second the recommendation for ABF and their U-Pack service. They drop a trailer in front of your house. You load it (or pay some local strong-people to do so, and can even stretch it over a few days or a week), then you lock it up with YOUR lock, and call them to schedule the pickup. Then they drop it in front of your new place, and you unload (or find some strong unloaders). It cost a whole lot less than your quote! It was better for us, with no broken items, no stolen items, etc.
My Fast Movers 8 year old post...................
" Our kitchen backsplash has white grout that's starting to look dingy "
What type of grout is it? How old?
We had the same dingy-grout problem behind our stove. What worked best for me was a paste of baking soda and water with an old toothbrush, then sealing the grout once it was dry. The sealer made the biggest long-term difference, it keeps grease splatter from soaking in. Now I just wipe it down with regular soapy water when I clean the counters.
Yes, your dad got scammed. Any decent electrician checks the meter or the main breaker before touching anything, so charging $650 when the power was literally shut off is a joke.
I had the exact same thing happen with me. I called Indiana Michigan Power and had them send me the service disconnect record with the exact date and time the power was cut. I sent that proof to the electrician with a demand for a refund, and he paid it back pretty quick once he saw I had the paper trail.
If he played dumb, you could file a complaint with the state licensing board. That usually gets their attention fast.
" If he played dumb, you could file a complaint with the state licensing board. That usually gets their attention fast. "
@Ajury Munomendy, this all happened two years ago.......................