mahtab93

Landscaping renovation needed along fence line

mahtab93
6 år sedan

Hi all,


I am looking to renovate the strip of area in the back along the fence line. I will be removing all the shrubs, but want to keep the tree to the far left and the japanese dwarf maple to the far right. I am open to having some pop of color or other shrubs. I know I dont want any azaleas or rhododendron in the back. I am located in NJ (zone 6b/7a) and the strip in the back gets a mix of sun and shade throughout the day.


Any suggestion, plant names, and visuals are very much appreciated!

Kommentarer (14)

  • mahtab93
    Författare
    6 år sedan

  • NHBabs z4b-5a NH
    6 år sedan

    Is the vine yours and do you want to keep it? What is currently growing there and what don't you like about it? Are you open to making the beds a bit deeper front to back as the current beds look a bit narrow? What is the goal? Do you want the fence mostly covered? Do you view the area in winter and want evergreens? Shrubs or perennials or vines?

  • PRO
    Emerald Sod Farms
    6 år sedan

    Azaleas or rhododendron in the back make your fence line become old. So I think you can choose any plant that has flowers and take care of easily.

  • mahtab93
    Författare
    6 år sedan

    The vine is mine. I believe its jasmine and I would like to keep it as it adds some charm in the late spring through fall. I dont like the azaleas I currently have (they experienced a lot of winter damage a few years ago and never recovered properly) and the area just looks a bit too boring and outdated. I am okay moving the beds a bit deeper - currently the depth is about 30 inches where the azaleas are. I am not looking to cover the entire fence, so nothing that grows too tall and i dont view the area in the winter. My end goal is to add some color, charm and have a cleaner look with either shrubs or perennials or a combination of both. Maybe perennials in the area near the dwarf maple and a different variety of shrubs to replace the azaleas?

  • NHBabs z4b-5a NH
    6 år sedan

    This is mostly about design choices with fewer plant suggestions since I haven't gardened in your area. Plants I have suggested should do well in your area however.

    I would at least double the 30" depth so that the plants don't end up squashed against the fence in a single regimented line. Most shrubs need more space than that and you want room to do any repair or cleaning of the fence. I find the current arrangement with one plant per panel unappealing. For a long season of interest you want a couple layers of plants as well as some differences in height and texture. Under the preexisting small trees plant something like three very small pots of a nonaggressive low ground cover such as Veronica 'Georgia Blue' so you get a finished look but don't have to do a lot of root disturbance; they will spread. Choose one type of plant with distinct foliage such as Spiraea 'Ogon' (gold) or one of the smaller ninebarks such as Physocarpus 'Tiny Wine' (red) or something silvery to repeat a few times along the length of the fence and give it some interest when not in bloom due to the foliage contrast. Then you can fill in with a variety of green plants without it looking random. If it were mine, I would be looking for a range of foliage texture, color, and size with flowers as the icing on top rather than as the main appeal. That will give you a long season of interest. Also look at shrubs with a really long bloom period. Two that work well in my garden are panicled hydrangeas such as 'Little Quickfire' and 'Bobo' which can bloom for 3-4 months. Another long bloomer with variegated foliage but tiny scented flowers is Daphne x transatlantica 'Summer Ice', but I would be more likely to use that in a spot viewed from close up, and I don't know whether this area fits that. Choose a few perennials for each season that are easy care but long blooming such as Helenium 'Mardi Gras'. Underplant with something for early spring interest such as flowering bulbs or Epimedium or Hellebores and other ground covers with interesting foliage such as Hakone grass or ferns in shadier spots. Don't forget about fall color for the shrubs such as Fothergilla, blueberries or Enkianthus. After planting, mulch well with an organic mulch such as shredded bark, but don't use landscape fabric under that.

    if you don't want a variety and instead want a simpler look, consider a shrub with long season of blooms such as Hydrangea 'Little Lime' and an underplanting of bulbs and groundcover.

    PS - Rhodies are lovely as a part of a mixed or shrub border and there are many that should do well for you and would be in the right size range, so at least consider some, even if not many. The current ones were apparently a poor choice for your area since they were winter damaged and not used in an attractive design, but I wouldn't dismiss all Rhodies out of hand if that is what ends up being the best choice.

  • mahtab93
    Författare
    6 år sedan
    Ändrades senast: 6 år sedan

    @NHBabs(4b-5aNH) Thanks for
    the suggestions. I will definitely increase the depth of the flower bed so I
    can layer the plants. I am struggling with a layout though. Im not exactly sure
    how to layer plants hence the straight boring line of azaleas in the back.
    Would I window out the plants and group them by species like Dig Doug's idea
    below? I do like the idea of having some smaller plants like the Veronica ‘George
    Blue’ under one of the trees.. …probably better off under the dwarf maple due
    to its lack of height. Im not exactly sure to fill in the areas behind the dwarf
    maple in the far right corner. Also, would I go with another small plant
    variety under the tree to the far left or larger perennials?
    I think I like the idea of having a few of the perennial varies you’ve mentioned
    for the azalea replacements, especially the hydrangeas. Im just having some
    trouble deciding on how to change up the shape of the overall flower bed. Im
    thinking something curvier like Dig Dougs mock up below, but not as far out to
    the right side fence.

    @Dig Doug's Designs(8A) Thanks for the visual, this looks great. I
    don’t want to go out as far as the entire right side fence. Also, I
    would like to keep the dwarf maple on the right. I think if I keep the dwarf
    maple I might have to do something simpler in that right corner so it doesn’t look
    too crowded. Would you be able to mock up another idea? Could you
    also list the plants you’ve used?

  • Kaillean (zone 8, Vancouver)
    6 år sedan

    Babs gave you lots of good ideas. Don’t be constrained by the current placement of the azaleas. They can be easily moved. They are shallow rooted. You can also prune them hard to try to get a more pleasing shape. They recover well.

  • mahtab93
    Författare
    6 år sedan

    I did a lot of pruning with the azaleas in previous years hoping that they would recover well, but unfortunately they havent been filling in nicely. Now with the renovation, my lack of creativity really shows because Im still having some trouble on the overall layout (should i make the bed more curved?), placement and layering of the plants.

  • Kaillean (zone 8, Vancouver)
    6 år sedan

    It’s really about what’s pleasing to your eye from inside the house and when in your yard. It’s helpful to lay out a garden hose or extension cord to experiment with different shapes.

  • NHBabs z4b-5a NH
    6 år sedan
    Ändrades senast: 6 år sedan

    I like fewer, more sweeping curves if any at all, both for aesthetics and for ease of mowing. Notice that Doug's sketch is basically an S curve that follows the fence line and has added depth only where there are larger plants. I am not fond of random wiggles to a bed edge since it looks contrived to me, and some of my beds are basically straight with just rounded ends. You would want the shallower parts of the bed to be the 60", with any curved out areas wider as opposed to the widest areas being 60".

    Depending on what you find appealing, you can group perennials and smaller shrubs in large sweeps of a single kind so it has the effect of a groundcover when it has grown in some. Or you can have smaller groupings that repeat down the length of the bed. What you want to avoid is one of this and one of that with no repetition at all to give it some coherence. Which kind of repeating of plants you choose depends on what appeals to you. To figure out what you like, start looking at gardens with a critical eye. Find neighborhoods with plantings you like and wander around or visit a Botanic garden or demo garden at a nursery or look at online landscaping photos here on Houzz or elsewhere. Is the whole garden underplanted with a single groundcover to tie it all together? Is a particular color of flowers or foliage or type of plant repeated down a bed or around a yard? Are there gardens that look disjointed or don't appeal to you and if so, why?

    You asked about under the teees. You could use the same ground cover in both places for some repetition or use different ones if you have strong repetition elsewhere. In the corner behind the little maple on the right, you could plant something like daffodils and hostas, so the daffodils bloom before the tree leafs out and then the hostas camouflage the dying bulb foliage and are shaded by the maple while the Veronica GB will grow anywhere there is space. VGB plays well with other plants to cover the ground but lets other plants grow also, something not all groundcovers do. Some are more aggressive. You may end up with not a lot actually growing under the tree since maples tend to have shallow, dense roots that don't share space with other plants well, so I would plant any groundcover there near the drip line and then let it wander where it can. Generally, I like to keep the groundcover beneath a tree low so that the layers are distinct rather than letting the lower level of plants growing up near where the branches are. And in general in a garden that is only viewed from one side like this one, (except under trees) you will want taller shrubs and perennials toward the back and shorter ones toward the front so that sight lines aren't blocked to the shorter plants.

    This photo illustrates much of what I am trying to explain, though with a border that's mostly shrubs and both the border and the plants are larger than you want being perhaps 60'-70' and 15' deep with a height limit of 15'-20'. Notice that each of the larger evergreens cultivars is repeated along the bed in more than spot. Less visible at this time of year, but there are also evergreen rhododendrons repeated; one kind has 3 scattered along the length, and the other has 4 or 5. Their rhythm really shows up when they are blooming, but they fade into the background and just provide fill the rest of the year. I really value having evergreens (both the conifers and the rhodies) since it makes the bed ornamental in the winter when viewed from windows, as well as serving the function of blocking the background work area better. There are also a few kinds of deciduous shrubs or small trees that have multiples, though not at all visible when they have lost their foliage as in this photo. Towards the front of the bed are a mix of taller, shorter, and groundcover perennials and spring flowering bulbs in good sized masses which when in bloom show the same repetition down the bed. At this time of year it is less apparent since some have died back and others just blend in from a distance. There are also some individual specimens since I am at heart a plant nerd, but for me having the rhythm of repetition down the bed gives an organization that suits my tastes and rural area better than something like Doug's sketch. What you want should be what appeals to you, and only you can make that decision. Regardless, you would want one or perhaps two layers of woody plants and the rest perennials or short woodies as in Doug's sketch.

    Be sure you check out ultimate plant sizes rather than just what the tag says which for shrubs is often 5 years. I like the MOBOT Plant Finder where you can search for plants that have certain requirements to fit your site or you can search by name. Either way, leave everything else beside what is important to the search blank on the form.

  • Dalton the Bengal (Zone 6)
    6 år sedan

    Fabulous post NHBabs. Very helpful and universal. Thank you. April

  • mahtab93
    Författare
    6 år sedan

    @Kaillean (zone 8, Vancouver) the garden hose idea is brilliant! This will definitely make it easier for me to visualize the shape better before I start cutting into the bed.

    @NHBabs(4b-5aNH) thanks for all the info and insight on layering! As you said, I need to consider the ultimate size of these plants, because I dont want this to look cluttered once the plants start to mature. I need to check out which woody type shrubs my local nursery offers. I really like the look of the hydrangeas and I believe some type have continuous bloom through out the summer/fall - which is exactly what im looking for to get some of that "pop of color" added. I think what I need to figure out next, if i go with the hydrangeas, is what to pair them with.... maybe some hostas for the front layer. But, as i group off these shrubs, what other shrubs pair nicely with hydrangeas?

    If I cant find the VBG, I potentially may go with creeping phlox under both trees as they are really low ground covers. Behind the maple, do you think small ornamental grass could work? Something like liriope spicata? Also, I think the idea of planting some bulbs for spring time color would be good, but how do you determine how to fill in areas? Do you just drop them where ever you have empty spaces in between other plants?

  • NHBabs z4b-5a NH
    6 år sedan

    Creeping phlox grows best in a lot of sun, so you will need to see if the area under your tree fulfills that once the leaves have grown in. For particular plant ideas, ask on the shrubs forum or the Hydrangea forum or the Perennials forum.

    If you like Hydrangeas, check out some of the small panicled hydrangeas/Hydrangea paniculata such as Little Lime, Baby Lace, Bobo, or Little Quickfire. They are tolerant of more sun than other hydrangeas and start blooming in early summer. Here they last until frost, slowly turning pink in late summer from the original white. You might find that Hydrangea serrata 'Tuff Stuff' does OK if given shade by one of the trees. I like to pair summer blooming hydrangeas with a combo of early flowering plants and evergreens. Something like Spirea 'Ogon' if small enough has different foliage texture and color and early blooms, or one of the smaller rhodies such as PJM Checkmate or perhaps one of the smaller or slower growing Yaku hybrids or a small conifer of some kind such as one of the dwarf selections of false cypress/Chamaecyparis.

    Bulbs I tend to plant with a medium or larger sized perennial just in front since the bulbs grow and bloom early, and then the sprouting perennial foliage helps hide the dying bulb foliage.

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